Tuesday Evening Knitting/Crochet Group

The new semester started off quit nicely. We have welcomed a few new students to our group and are looking forward to a creative and nice time ahead.

Here are some projects. Lourdes finished her yellow cable scarf and started a already a new project. This time around she is making a baby jacket with "bobbles".

A beautiful yellow bag and a pretty crochet dress in white and green made by Sinhu for her a little girl.

Pilar finished her shawl and it just looks gorgeous.

Spring Semester 2008

Time goes by fast and as we turn around fall semester is over and spring semester begins. I have new and exciting projects planned for spring, truly something for everyone. There are easy projects for the beginner and more challenging once for the intermediate as well as for the advanced knitter and crocheter. You will have the opportunity to complete as many or as little items as you choose. Also remember, you can bring your own knitting ideas and projects to class: You can find the pattern for all featured project’s under the designated link.

Class Projects Spring 2008

The BOHO BERET featured in the LA Times. The design is adapted from Shannita Williams-Alleyne, A Mano Yarn Center in Los Angeles. Since I translated the pattern from knitting in crochet the crocheter under us can pick this beret as well. Both boho beret’s knitted or crochet measure on the knitting skill meter for the plain version beginning knitter and for the more elaborate pattern intermediate skills the same is true for the crochet version of this beautiful boho beret.

The EASY QUICK JACKET a very exciting project for the beginning knitter will guide the knitter trough increase and decrease as well as knitting bands and collars and making button holes. This project is designed for all types of yarn, colors and sizes because it is tailored for the individual regardless of age or size. There are five variations available to choose from including a crochet version. The double-breasted (blue), the V (green), the band (brown), the straight (purple) and the crochet version (mixed berry colors).

FAIR ISLE will be the project for our advanced knitters and crocheters. We will learn how to knit steeks, how to manage and handle two colors at the same time in the round. We will use the steek technique which means we will cut our knitted fabric open. Moor about steeks at a later time. We will start with a knitting/crochet double pointed needle case project, which is not yet feature here. Below are three pictures of multi color Fair Isle projects made by my friend Angelika who is a knitter for Knit Picks. Many of the projects feature in Knit Picks are made by Angelika.

Multi color Fair Isle pattern by Kathleen Taylor

Two color Fair Isle

BARBARA WALKERS AFGHAN a very popular project amongst knitters and crocheters is yet another project students can start. This is a larger project and I would suggest that you still try in between other items to work on.

Merino Wool

Fine sock yarn: 100% Merino Wool

New Knitting Software

I have purchased the Stitch & Motif Maker software and the Sock Wizard PC V2. The sock knitting sw is a charting sw for hand knitters. It's a very amazing tool for sock knitters. Just plug in the needle size, shoe size, the material you plan to use and the type of sock you like to knit, cuff to toe, or toe to cuff. Further you need to have the gauge numbers and decided what kind of heel you like to have. You can choose from ultimate diagonal or YO diagonal, or short-row with heel flap. You have three options to knit the flap, (eye of partridge, stockinette or regular heel stitch). There are eight options available for your toe section. When all numbers plugged in you will have the option of printing your personalized sock pattern. It will take you less than 2 minutes to complete inputs for the pattern. I really love this CD because it takes the guess work out of sock knitting.

The Stitch & Motif Maker software let you work on your own ideas and translate your creativity into a usable pattern chart to print.
Both sw are available for you to use. I will have my computer with me so all of you who are interested in printing customized sock pattern and motifs are welcome to use it.

You also have the opportunity to explore the Sweater Wizard which I have installed on the computer as well to your conveniences.

Toe sock without lace

Gauge: 24 sts and 36 rounds = 4" over stockinette

Size: woman's medium

Toe:
Using the figure-8 method, co 16 (8 sts on each of 2 needles). Plain round: K all sts.Increase round: [K1, m1, k to 1 st before end of needle, m1, k1] twice. Divide 20 sts evenly among 4 needles. Work Increase round every other round until there are 48 sts.

Continues to work until the sock measures 3-1/2" less than the length of the foot, and then begins gusset increases.

Foot:

Work the following two rounds 9 times, or until there are 66 stitches:Even Round: knit to end of round.Increase Round: k3, m1, k to end of round, m1. K3

Heel will be worked back and forth over remaining 42 sts in round.

Fitting:

Begin short rows to knit the heel area, turning and wrapping and then going back and picking the wraps up. Continue to knit back and forth in this manner; then, to connect the heel flap to the gusset, knit to the gap and then decreases. Finally, create a small ribbed cuff and a sewn bind-off. (will explain)

Heel:

Row 1 (RS): K 32, w&t.

Row 2 (WS): P 22, w&t.

Row 3 (RS): K 21, w&t.

Row 4 (WS): P 20, w&t.

Row 5 (RS): K 19, w&t.

Row 6 (WS): P 18, w&t.

Row 7 (RS): K 17, w&t.

Row 8 (WS): P 16, w&t.

Row 9 (RS): K 15, w&t.

Row 10 (WS): P 14, w&t.

Row 11 (RS): K 13, w&t.

Row 12 (WS): P 12, w&t.

Row 13 (RS): K 11, w&t.

Next row (WS): P 11; p next 5 sts, picking up each wrap (loop of yarn wrapped around base of stitch) and purling it together with the st it had wrapped; pick up next wrap and place on left needle, p3tog (wrap on left needle, st that it had wrapped, and next st, all purled together). Turn work (do not wrap st).Next row (RS): Slip 1, k 16, k next 6 sts, picking up each wrap and knitting it together with the st it had wrapped; pick up next wrap and place on left needle, sssk (wrap, st that it had wrapped, and next st, all worked together.) Turn work (do not wrap st).Next Row (WS): Slip 1, p 22, p2tog. Turn work.Next Row (RS): Slip 1, k 22, ssk. Turn work.Repeat last 2 rows 7 times more until all heel sts have been worked; do not turn work on last row. 24 heel sts remain.

Leg:

The leg will be worked in the round over all 48 sts. Repeat round until leg is 6" from end of heel. (or desired length)

Ribbing:

Work 1x1 rib: k1, [p2, k2] to last st in round, k1.Repeat 2x2 rib round until ribbing measures 1". BO using sewn bind-off and weave in ends using tapestry needle.

Felted Möbius Bag Pattern

Felted Möbius Swirl Bag

Materials:
Fleece Artist Kid Aran (100% kid, 50% wool, 250 g/ 400 m), 1 skein

1 braid Fleece Artist multicolor sliver

1 yd. smooth contrast-color waste yarn (there will be enough yarn to make 3 bags)

47" circular needles, U.S. size 11 (8 mm) (or size needed to obtain gauge)

felting needle and piece of foam

tapestry needle

stitch marker

round balloon

Gauge: 12 sts = 4" (10 cm) (before felting)

Abbreviations:

k knit

k1f&b knit once into the front and once into the back of the same stitch (an increase)

k2tog knit 2 stitches together

MCO Möbius cast-on

p purl

Begin handle and rim:

MCO 56. Before continuing, check to be certain there is only one crossing of needle and cable. Place a marker on right needle. Knit the first stitch, which is the slipknot. The first 55 stitches will alternate between being mounted with the front leg first (as you are probably used to) and the back leg first. Knit into the leg that comes first. When the marker appears beneath your needles on the cable below, you have completed the 55 stitches and from now on all stitches will appear mounted "normally" with the front leg first. The next stitch is formed by the double sides of the slipknot as it loops down around the cable below. Knit this stitch as if the double sides are one strand. Knit the next 27 stitches. Let regular yarn dangle while you use waste yarn to knit next 28 sts. Slide the 28 waste yarn sts back onto left needle. Now knit back across the 28 waste yarn sts on left needle, using regular yarn. (A line of waste yarn is now sandwiched in between rows of regular yarn. Later you will remove the waste yarn and knit the bag with the stitches left behind.) The marker now reappears in between your needles, announcing you have completed the first round.

Be clear about this before going on:Each time the marker appears in between your needles (not on the cable below) you are at the end of a round.

Continue handle and rim:Knit 5 rounds. Bind off. You have now completed the handle as well as the rim of the bag.

Bowl of bag:Pick up (but do not knit) the 56 stitches held by waste yarn, working on the side with purl bumps, picking up first one column and then the second. Pull out a length of cable before picking up the second column, so you can make a U-turn with the needle. Remove waste yarn. You will knit with regular yarn from here on. To continue, keep a loop of cable pulled out like a single Mickey Mouse ear at the beginning of each round, so that the remaining cable creates a short circular needle that suits your circle of knitting. Beginning at one corner, place marker, *k 28, pick up and k 2 extra stitches in next corner, repeat from * once (60 sts). *Knit 2, k 1 f&b, repeat from * to marker. (80 sts) Knit 12 rounds. *Knit 6, k 2 tog, repeat from * to marker (70 sts). Knit 4 rounds. *Knit 5, k 2 tog, repeat from * to marker. (60 sts) Knit 4 rounds. *Knit 4, k 2 tog, repeat from * to marker (50 sts). Knit 4 rounds. *Knit 3, k 2 tog, repeat from * to marker (40 sts). Knit 1 round. *Knit 3, k 2 tog, repeat from * to marker (32 sts). Knit 1 round. *Knit 2, k 2 tog, repeat from * to marker (24 sts). Knit 1 round. *Knit 1, k 2 tog, repeat from * to marker (16 sts).

Finishing:Cut tail of yarn. Use tapestry needle to thread tail through all 16 sts and pull tightly closed, sewing end securely. Weave in all ends and if there are any weak spots, especially near the handles, weave extra yarn through these areas to strengthen them before felting. Felting:Place bag in washing machine with a pair of jeans or tennis shoes or a half-dozen tennis balls. Set machine for low, hot water, on a regular (not gentle) cycle, and add two teaspoons of detergent. Set a timer and check on the progress every few minutes. Reset the machine to continue agitating (don't let it rinse) until the bag is the size you like. Pull it out and rinse by hand, then press between towels to remove excess water. Now pull, push and pat the bag into desired shape, giving the handle a good stretch and finger-pressing it smooth. Blow up a balloon inside the bag (this makes it nice and round) and let dry.

Needle-felting the swirl:Use a felting needle to attach a swirling path of multicolored sliver to the dry bag, placing the piece of foam beneath the surface where you are needle-felting. Let the swirl travel from one side up the handle and down into the bag. Remember, this bag has only one surface, and the swirl demonstrates this!

Reversible Cable Pattern

Cast on 20 stitches

Row 1 - 11: k1,p1 across row

Row 12: c12b, k1,p1 to end of row

Row 13 - 23: k1,p1 across rows

Row 24: (k1,p1) 4 times, c12f

Repeat Rows 1 - 24 until desired length and bind off.

Lacy Toe Up Sock Pattern

Gauge: 24 sts and 36 rounds = 4" over stockinette

Size: woman's medium

Abbreviations:
co cast on

k knit

k2tog knit 2 together

m1 make 1

p purl

p2tog purl 2 together

rs right side

ssk (slip, slip, knit) slip a stitch as if to knit to right-hand needle, slip a secondstitch as if to knit, slip both stitches back to left-hand needle and knit together throughback loops

sssk slip next 3 sts knitwise, one at a time, to right needle, insert left needleback into front of these 3 sts, knit them together

st(s) stitch(es)

w&t wrap and turnws wrong side

yo yarn over

Toe:
Using the figure-8 method, co 16 (8 sts on each of 2 needles).

Plain round: K all sts.

Increase round: [K1, m1, k to 1 st before end of needle, m1, k1] twice. Divide 20 sts evenly among 4 needles. Work Increase round every other round until there are 48 sts.

Use the chart to start the 6-row lace pattern, involving yarn-overs and right- and left-leaning decreases. To make yarn-overs smaller when needed, simply skip the yarn-over and pick up the yarn on the next row instead. Continues to work in the lace pattern until the sock measures 3-1/2" less than the length of the foot, and then begins gusset increases.

Foot:
K1, p2, work first row of lace pattern, p2, k to end of round.
Continue in established pattern until the foot of the sock measures 3-1/2" less than the length of the foot:

K1, p2, work next row of Lace Pattern, p2, k to end of round. Work the following two rounds 9 times, or until there are 66 stitches:

Even Round: K1, p2, work next row of Lace Pattern, p2, k to end of round.

Increase Round: K1, p2, work next row of Lace Pattern, p2, k1, m1, k to end of round, m1.

K1, p2, work next row of Lace Pattern, p2, k1. Heel will be worked back and forth over remaining 42 sts in round.

Fitting:
Begin short rows to knit the heel area, turning and wrapping and then going back and picking the wraps up. Continue to knit back and forth in this manner; then, to connect the heel flap to the gusset, knit to the gap and then decreases. Finally, create a small ribbed cuff and do a sewn bind-off.

Heel:
Row 1 (RS): K 32, w&t.

Row 2 (WS): P 22, w&t.

Row 3 (RS): K 21, w&t.

Row 4 (WS): P 20, w&t.

Row 5 (RS): K 19, w&t.

Row 6 (WS): P 18, w&t.

Row 7 (RS): K 17, w&t.

Row 8 (WS): P 16, w&t.

Row 9 (RS): K 15, w&t.

Row 10 (WS): P 14, w&t.

Row 11 (RS): K 13, w&t.

Row 12 (WS): P 12, w&t.

Row 13 (RS): K 11, w&t.

Next row (WS):
P 11; p next 5 sts, picking up each wrap (loop of yarn wrapped around base of stitch) and purling it together with the st it had wrapped; pick up next wrap and place on left needle, p3tog (wrap on left needle, st that it had wrapped, and next st, all purled together). Turn work (do not wrap st).

Next row (RS):
Slip 1, k 16, k next 6 sts, picking up each wrap and knitting it together with the st it had wrapped; pick up next wrap and place on left needle, sssk (wrap, st that it had wrapped, and next st, all worked together.) Turn work (do not wrap st).

Next Row (WS):
Slip 1, p 22, p2tog. Turn work.

Next Row (RS): Slip 1, k 22, ssk. Turn work.

Repeat last 2 rows 7 times more until all heel sts have been worked; do not turn work on last row. 24 heel sts remain.

Leg:
The leg will be worked in the round over all 48 sts.

[K1, p2, work next row of Lace Pattern, p2, k1] twice.

Repeat round until leg is 6" from end of heel.

Ribbing:
Work 1x1 rib: k1, [p2, k2] to last st in round, k1.

Repeat 2x2 rib round until ribbing measures 1".

BO using sewn bind-off and weave in ends using tapestry needle.

Möbius Pattern

Materials:
Fleece Artist 4-ply cashmere (100% cashmere, 50 g/ 170 m), 1 skein47" circular needles, U.S. size 10 (6 mm) (or size needed to obtain gauge)tapestry needlestitch marker

Gauge: 12 sts = 4" (10 cm)
Finished size: 27" circumference, 10" width
Abbreviations:
k knit
k2tog knit 2 stitches together

MCO Möbius cast-on
p purl
p1f&b purl once into the front and once into the back of the same stitch (an increase)
yo yarn over

Möbius cast-on:
MCO 80 sts as follows:Place a slipknot on the middle of the 47" needle's cable, with the needle ends hanging down like an upside-down U. With your right hand, take the left needle and circle it counterclockwise, placing it in front of and against the slipknot (which is in the middle of the cable). The right side of the upside-down U remains hanging down and is ignored during the Möbius Cast-On (MCO) process.

Your right hand holds the needle (which is pointing to the left) and the slipknot against the cable, so the slipknot cannot slip around. Tension the yarn and cable in your left hand by using your index finger to hold the yarn up high and your remaining three fingers and thumb to firmly grasp the cable and yarn. You should see a triangle: its base is the cable, the yarn forms the right side and your left hand is the left side. It is easiest to work with a large triangle, with the base several inches long.

Step 1: Continuing to hold the slipknot firmly against the cable with your right hand, which is also holding the needle, point the needle at yourself, then dive under the cable and up inside the triangle. Lean on the yarn and swing right back the way you came, bringing the scoop of yarn with you. In other words, retrace your path, ending in the position you began (starting position).
Step 2: Continuing to hold the slipknot firmly against the cable with your right hand, which is also holding the needle, point the needle up and over the yarn, then down behind it to bring a scoop of yarn back to starting position. This is essentially a yarn-over.

Have a look: there are two stitches on the needle and two on the cable below. The first one on the cable is the slipknot. To count MCO stitches, count only the stitches on the needle. Never count the stitches on the cable below, although they will be knitted. Since the slipknot is on the cable, it is not counted.

Repeat steps 1 and 2 over and over until the required number of stitches is cast on. For an MCO of 80, repeat steps 1 and 2 until 80 sts are on the needle and 80 on the cable below.
Begin to knit:Before continuing, check to be certain there is only one crossing of needle and cable. Place a marker on right needle. Knit the first stitch, which is the slipknot. The first 79 stitches will alternate between being mounted with the front leg first (as you are probably used to) and the back leg first. Knit into the leg that comes first. When the marker appears beneath your needles on the cable below, you have completed the 79 stitches, and from now on all stitches will appear mounted "normally" with the front leg first. The next stitch is formed by the double sides of the slipknot as it loops down around the cable below. Knit this stitch as if the double sides are one strand. Continue knitting until the marker reappears in between your needles, announcing that you have completed your first round.

Be clear about this before going on:Each time the marker appears in between your needles (not on the cable below), you are at the end of a round.

Begin diagonal lace pattern:*Yo, k6, k2tog. Repeat from * to end of round. Knit one round. Repeat last two rounds 10 more times.

Lace edging:
Round 1: *[Yo, k1] 2 times, [yo, k2tog] 3 times. Repeat from * to end of round.
Round 2: Knit.
Round 3: *Yo, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 4: Knit.
Round 5: *Yo, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 6: Knit.

Garter edge:
Round 1: *P1f&b, p3. Repeat from * to end of round.
Round 2: Knit.
Bind off loosely.

Blocking:The cashmere cowl will self-block as you wear it. With wear, the yarn will bloom to produce a lovely halo.

Boho Beret Pattern

How to make the boho beret

Los Angeles Times; January 6, 2008

Adapted from Shannita Williams-Alleyne, A Mano Yarn Center, Los Angeles:Time:

About 5 hours

Size: Medium (Large)

Materials: 2 skeins of any worsted-weight or heavy-worsted-weight yarn, about 150 yards total

Needles: U.S. size 7 and U.S. size 9 16-inch circular needles; U.S. size 9 double-pointed needles

Here's a list of terms used in the pattern:

K: knit

P: purl

Tbl: through the back loop

M1: make one

YO: yarn over

K2TOG: knit 2 together

SKP: slip, knit, pass the slipped stitch over

DPN: double-pointed needles

I-cord (sometimes called the idiot-cord): It's done by knitting the remaining stitches on a DPN and at the end of the row, instead of turning your work, slide the stitches to the opposite end of the DPN and knit again in the same order.

"When necessary": When knitting on circular needles becomes difficult, switch to DPNs, which allow you to knit in the round over smaller spaces.

1. Using the size 7 needle, cast on 88 (96) stitches. Join for knitting in the round and knit in 1x1 twisted rib for 1 1/2 inches (Note: Twisted rib is K1, tbl, P1, repeat from * to end of round). Place a marker.

2. Change to size 9 needles and increase as follows:*K2, M1, repeat from * around to end of round.

3. Knit even until hat measures 2 1/2 inches from beginning then begin eyelet pattern:

Row 1: *YO, K2tog, repeat from * around

Row 2: Knit

Row 3: *YO, SKP, repeat from * around

Row 4: Knit

Repeat eyelet pattern once more (or until eyelet insert is as wide as you want it to be). Then knit even until hat measures 5 1/2 inches from the beginning.

Begin decreases as follows (remember to change to double point needles when necessary):

Decrease rounds 1: Decrease 2 stitches -- once at the beginning of the round and once about halfway through the round. Work even for 1 inch.

Decrease round 2: *K2, K2tog, repeat from * to end of round. Work even for 1 inch.

Decrease round 3: *K1, K2tog, repeat from * around. Work even for 1 inch.

Decrease round 4: *K2tog, repeat from * around. Work even for 1 inch.

Decrease round 5: *K2tog, repeat from * around. Work even for 3/4 inch.

Decrease round 6: Repeat round 5. Knit 1 round even.

5. Repeat round 6 until you have 4 to 6 stitches remaining. Place all remaining stitches on 1 double-point needle and knit in 1-cord for 3 inches. Bind off. Weave in ends. Tie 1-cord into a knot.

Alternative ending (without top knot): End round with 5 or 6 stitches. Cut yarn and pull tail through remaining stitches. Pull tight. Weave in ends.